We discussed obedience in the last post, and now we are going to build on that and discuss control of your puppy. While some may see these as the same they are in fact very different. There is definitely some overlap, as there is with all training of dogs, because each stage builds on the other. When we begin to gain control of our puppy and harness his energy, we are able to help him to perform at a higher level and make for happier handlers and we are more able to keep friends.
Let’s face it, none of us like to go to someone home, or meet them for a hunt and the second they release their dog, or open the dog box, we are attacked by their dog. Jumping on us, or sniffing and marking, licking and sometimes growling and barking at us for no good reason. Owners and handlers who teach their dogs properly and have control of their puppies and dogs are able to prevent this unwanted behavior and make the entire encounter more pleasant for everyone involved including the puppy.
Now that we have begun teaching our puppy to sit and stay, these are the foundations of good control of your dog. The technique I use is to leach the puppy before I remove them from their dog box or kennel and when we leave the kennel or box, I reinforce the sit and stay command when I introduce them to the open terrain. It is important for the dogs to be able to release some energy and go to the bathroom, but all of this is done while on a leash for control. The leash is used extensively during this whole process. As the puppy begins to learn we will move from a leash to a check cord. (Which is just a very long leash)
As the dog is brought from the box and introduced, the commands to sit and stay are given and reinforced. This can be difficult for a high strung puppy but it is doable. The idea is to not expect too much at once. If I can get my excited puppy to sit and stay for five to ten seconds while they are wanting to run and jump I am pleased. Then I will release them and allow them to run (while leashed) and I will tighten the leash and repeat the command for sit and stay. When they respond positively, I reward them with positive reinforcement (petting).
Perhaps the most important training involves the dogs jumping up on people. Nothing can frighten a child or some smaller adults more than a strange dog jumping up on them. Also, personally, I find it intrusive and rude when someone allows their dog to jump on me when I am trying to greet them or speak with them. Sporting dogs need to be taught that this behavior is not acceptable and should not be allowed under any circumstances.
While leashed, and the puppy of dog tries to jump up onto someone, a jerk of the leash and a strong ‘NO’ will usually get their attention. When they try again, repeat this action with a stern ‘NO’ followed by the command to sit and stay. Every time your puppy tries to jump up on someone this needs to be applied. If your puppy is not leashed when this occurs. A simple firm, but not too hard tap on his nose while jumping followed by the stern ‘NO’ will often get his attention. It normally does not take too much reinforcement to get this driven into their mind that jumping is not allowed.
Roaming or running off while training or hunting is also an attribute that is not desirable. Hunters agree that while they are on a hunt, being bothered by someone else’s dog can make for an uncomfortable situation. Not to mention the fear of them running off and getting lost, killed or stolen. Hound hunters who train dogs to run but still need control have moved to what is known as a shock collar. This collar has a small electric stimulus that applies a low voltage shock to the dog’s neck when they are exercising bad behavior. These can be invaluable tools. More about these later.
Control of your dog is essential to preserving a great hunt and builds for an excellent relationship among yourself, your dog and your friends.
